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Global Bioenergies to launch "LAST" cosmetics brand in June 2021

France-headed advanced biofuels and biochemical process developer Global Bioenergies has announced the upcoming launch of its “LAST” long-wear cosmetics brand in June 2021. Some 18 products will comprise the world’s first range of long-wear, transfer-resistant, and waterproof eye make-up to use natural ingredients. This groundbreaking performance is based on the renewable bio-based isododecane produced by the company as the main ingredient of its formulations.

At last, cosmetics derived from renewable and bio-based ingredients. Global Bioenergies is launching its LAST brand of mascaras, eyebrow mascaras, and eye shadows using biobased isododecane in June 2021 (photo courtesy Global Bioenergies).

Late 2019, Global Bioenergies installed a cosmetics formulation unit in its Evry R&D lab, which produced the first eye make-up prototypes to achieve long-hold performance with natural ingredients.

It then put together a special-purpose team of experts covering all aspects of the cosmetics industry, including formulation, regulation, packaging, artistic direction, marketing, communications, and e-commerce.

Prototypes were refined and went into industrial production at one of Europe’s leading make-up manufacturers. Packaging made from mineral (glass or metal), bio-based or recycled materials were specified, designed, and prototyped.

In make-up, isododecane is essential to give the product the properties required for long wear. It is the main ingredient, comprising 25-50 percent of formulations. By using the renewable isododecane we produce through our innovative process and by making sure the other ingredients are natural, we have thus been able to develop an eye make-up range that for the first time combines long-lasting wear with over 90 percent natural ingredients.  This meant rapidly incorporating a whole new set of professional skills, a challenge we embraced with agility and discipline, explained Marc Delcourt, CEO of Global Bioenergies.

Make-up product line

The LAST brand currently has three categories of product: mascaras, eyebrow mascaras, and eye shadows, all lasting at least 24 hours. Allowing for the different colours, the full range has 18 products, all designed with over 90 percent natural ingredients and packaging to minimize their environmental footprint, and now in production in a French plant.

Our motto since the start of the project was ‘Natural, yes, but no compromise on performance. Working in-house and with our manufacturer, we produced a host of prototypes and ran them through different types of tests: instrumental, sensory and in-use. The in-use trials were blinded, using consumer volunteers who were highly appreciative of all the product’s qualities: performance (long-lasting, intense colours) and feeling (easy application, nice texture and day-long comfort). Based on all these results, we can today claim that the performance of this over-90 percent naturally sourced range matches that of the best products on the market, said Muriel Morelli, Head of Product Development at LAST.

There are plans to start expanding the range as from the second half of 2021: a wide range of liquid lipstick, also combining long wear with a highly natural product, is in the pipeline.

From biotech to beauty…we have taken a big leap forward. LAST is both a technological achievement, a bold commitment to the environmental transition, and a celebration of colours. Our colours stand out. This means the brand can stand tall and live up to its claims: Colours that last. COLORS THAT LAST is an attitude, a call-out to everyone making a statement, anyone who dares to play with the codes and rewrite the rules. The range goes on sale in June through our dedicated website, remarked Romain Desfresnes, Head of Strategy, Marketing and Communications, LAST.

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