Italy-headed biochemical major Novamont S.p.A. in close collaboration with compatriot Roelmi Holding HPC has developed a line of readily biodegradable ingredients for cosmetic applications. Called CELUS-BI, the company says the new line represents a new standard of innovation in the sector and a sustainable biodegradable solution to microplastics currently used in cosmetics.
Non-biodegradable microplastics in cosmetic products are a serious cause for concern as they represent a source of marine pollution and get taken up by fish and other aquatic organisms. Tonnes of plastic ‘dust’ from the use of personal care products end up in lakes, rivers, seas, and oceans.
These include microplastics with an exfoliating function found in shower gels and various “rinse-off” cleansing products along with microplastics that have specific technical properties used in face and body creams, sunscreens and makeup – both non-rinsing and “leave-on” products. While various solutions are already available for rinse-off products, technically sound and truly sustainable alternatives are urgently needed for the more complex leave-on products.
Novamont Group in close collaboration with Roelmi Holding has developed a line of readily biodegradable ingredients for cosmetic applications. Called CELUS-BI, the company says the new line represents a new standard of innovation in the sector and a sustainable solution to microplastics used in cosmetics.
The “most advanced” product in the range CELUS-BI FEEL is, Novamont says, an “original and sustainable response” to the need to eliminate microplastics from leave-on cosmetics. A texturising agent that guarantees excellent use properties such as softness, velvet touch, and film-forming capacities, the ingredient also has excellent sebum control and high compatibility with active substances, vegetable oils, and fragrances.
According to Novamont, CELUS-BI FEEL is “readily biodegradable” in accordance with the guidelines of the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) and biodegrades rapidly and totally in the environment. It is fully biodegraded in just a few days in a municipal wastewater treatment plant (WWTP), ensuring that no residues or microplastics end up in rivers and seas or in the residual digestate sludge.
Thus the product is suitable for use in applications where dispersion in water is highly likely such as sunscreens, eliminating potential pollution and/or accumulation. It also has an “exceptional” Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) profile. According to Novamont, preliminary results, on 1 kg of material from “cradle to gate” show average greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions that are 75 – 95 percent lower than those for the range of products currently used for the same applications, while an average of 60 – 75 percent less non-renewable energy resources are consumed than the same range of standard products.
The range includes CELUS-BI SPHERA (exfoliants) and CELUS-BI ESTERS (emollients), products made with renewable raw materials of European origin in synergy with food crops, respecting the specific nature of local areas.
By way of demonstration, and to highlight the level of technical performance that can be achieved by combining CELUS-BI FEEL with other products of the CELUS-BI family, Roelmi has developed a range of cosmetic prototypes. This included the compact powder that was used for the launch to demonstrate that even for an exceptionally velvety blusher, there is a sustainable alternative to plastic microbeads for the cosmetics industry, without increasing the dosages or costs compared to standard products.
According to Novamont, the production capacity available for CELUS-BI FEEL would cover the entire European need for microplastics in the cosmetics industry.
Roelmi believes in an ethical and chain-based approach to innovation in the cosmetics field and has found in Novamont, one of the pioneers of the circular bioeconomy, a wealth of opportunities to develop a range of truly sustainable and accessible products, said Giacomo Santus, CEO of Roelmi Holding HPC.
Facts
About Novamont
The Novamont Group is a world leader in the development and production of bioplastics and biochemicals through the integration of chemistry, the environment and agriculture. With 600 employees, the Group posted sales of EUR 195 million in 2017 and made continuous investments in research and development (R&D) activities (24% of staff) and has a portfolio of around 1 000 patents. The group has its headquarters in Novara, a production facility in Terni and research laboratories in Novara, Terni and Piana di Monte Verna (CE). Novamont has subsidiaries based in Porto Torres (SS), Bottrighe (RO), and Patrica (FR). Active in Germany, France, and the United States (US) through commercial offices and a representative office in Brussels, Belgium, Novamont operates through own distributors in Belgium, Netherlands, Luxembourg, Denmark, Sweden, Norway, United Kingdom, China, Japan, Canada, Australia, and New Zealand.
