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Global Bioenergies releases first commercial batch of cosmetic-grade renewable isododecane

France-headed advanced biofuels and biochemical process developer Global Bioenergies has announced that it has released its first commercial batch of cosmetic-grade renewable isododecane, a key ingredient in the cosmetics market, and has confirmed its use in the field of long-lasting makeup, in particular with the company's project to create a new brand.

Global Bioenergies has released its first commercial batch of cosmetic-grade renewable isododecane, a key ingredient in the cosmetics market, and has confirmed its use in the field of long-lasting makeup, in particular with the company’s project to create a new brand (photo courtesy Global Bioenergies).

Isododecane is a key ingredient in the cosmetics market, used for its emollient properties in a large number of skincare and hair treatment products. It is also the leading ingredient in long-lasting makeup products, such as waterproof mascaras or long-lasting liquid lipsticks. It can represent up to 50 percent by the volume of formulas in these categories.

Isododecane is one of the major molecules in cosmetics. By producing cosmetic-grade renewable isododecane, we are achieving a significant milestone in the beauty industry in its quest for chemical-free products. Long-lasting makeup can now achieve a very high level of natural ingredients, over 90 percent, with no impact on performance, said Marc Delcourt, Co-Founder, and CEO of Global Bioenergies.

Long-lasting makeup, which now accounts for around 25 percent of the global makeup market, was developed from this essential ingredient, previously derived from the petrochemical industry: isododecane provides long-lasting performance, such as the absence of transfer and resistance to water, while maintaining optimal comfort.

First batch of cosmetic bio-based isododecane

Global Bioenergies was able to produce bio-based cosmetic-grade isododecane. Firstly, plant-derived resources were converted into isobutene using an innovative process developed by the company.

Then, in several stages, and with each one in accordance with the natural characteristics criteria admitted within the cosmetics market, isobutene was converted into isododecane.

This first batch of cosmetic-grade isododecane was the subject of around 15 analyses, carried out by specialized and independent professionals, all of which confirmed the high level of purity of the product as well as its compliance with the technical specifications defined during the toxicological studies conducted by the company in 2020.

These analyses enabled to release of the batch for commercial use.

Project to create a new brand

This particular opportunity, specific to long-lasting makeup, prompts us to produce the commercial proof of our concept ourselves: we plan to bring our innovation to consumers through a new brand. To carry out this ambitious project, we created a special unit inspired by Romain Desfresnes, a recognized ‘beauty entrepreneur’ who brings together experts from all business lines across the cosmetics industry, said Marc Delcourt.

Around 300 000 units will be produced by using this first batch of isododecane. They will be marketed on the long-lasting makeup market representing around 1 billion units per year.

We have placed performance at the core of our range: we managed to create 2.0 top-quality makeup products which combine wonderful textures, intense colours and a high proportion of natural ingredients (between 90 and 99 percent), with long-wear, transfer-proof and comfort performance in line with best market standards. Our unique ‘from biotech to beauty’ approach will enable us to address consumers, who are increasingly environmentally-conscious in their purchasing behaviour, said Romain Desfresnes.

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